Biodynamic trendsetter Marc Isart braves the challenges of rocky, high-altitude vineyards outside Madrid, championing an old-school style in his fresh, complex renditions of Tempranillo and Malvar. Since the mid 2000s, Isart has been touting his philosophy of natural winemaking around Madrid, and it’s given rise to some of the region’s highly celebrated wines—both those he crafts under his own label and bottlings released by others. Marc began his career at Bodegas Orusco in 2004 before moving on to Bernabeleva in the Gredos area three years later, where he spearheaded a shift toward ecological viticulture and low-intervention winemaking.
He simultaneously co-founded Comando G, a project dedicated to rescuing and spotlighting Gredos’ mountain vineyards, gaining further expertise on the region’s high-altitude terroirs in the process. In 2019, he decided to expand his production by renting a warehouse and acquiring more vineyards around Cinchón, Belmonte de Tajo, and Colmenar de Oreja.
With each new step forward, each expression of terroir he teases out, Marc Isart continues to help define the identity of the Vinos de Madrid region.
Bodegas Cinco Leguas, 'Rompecepas' Garnacha, Chinchon, Madrid, 2023
Rompecepas Garnacha is a light red wine from old vines with a moderate 12.7% alcohol. It is fermented destemmed with a short maceration of five days in concrete and aged in 500-liter barrels and 700-liter tinajas for nine months. This is completely unique red wine; it is pale, aromatic, floral and light, a happy wine that is less tannic than the wines from San Martín tend to be.
Salvajes de Gredos, Cadalso, Sierra de Gredos, Madrid, Spain, 2023
"... from 85-year-old Garnacha vines in the wetter part of Cadalso de los Vidrios. The destemmed grapes fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and a 10-day maceration. It matured in used 500-liter barrels for nine months. It's paler than the wine from San Martín and is more delicate. This is more floral, harmonious and subtle despite being from one of the two villages where ripeness is faster, but with the altitude and rain, it delivered a more elegant wine"
Bodegas Cinco Leguas 'La Maldicion' Malvar de la Olla, Madrid, Spain 2021
'La Maldicion' Malvar, is a skin contact, orange wine, made with grapes from 50-100 year old vine. Fermentation continues for about 50 days on the skin and stalks, followed by aging in used french oak barrels. Quite restrained on the nose there are however some lovely citrus notes, with a hint of dry grass. On the palate it is fresh and juicy with citrus and yellow fruits, a lovely texture and a dry long finish.
