Emmerich Knoll, Durnsteiner, Ried Kellerberg, Riesling, Smaragd, Wachau, Austria, 2024 ^Sale

Dürnstein. Terraced slope of Gföhler gneiss facing south-south-east. Certified sustainable.
Lemony and cool from the first whiff. Notes of cold yellow plum and apple blossom skate across a cool, stony base. The wine has energy, life, even as it’s restrained. Has real grip, real coolness.

- 18/20pts, Tara Q Thomas, jancisrobinson.com