Travelling east from Naples, past Vesuvius and further inland, the roads begin to climb and twist sharply and the air becomes noticeably cooler. This green, mountainous area is known as Irpinia. Small farms are dotted around the hills, many growing olives or grapes or both. In the past, most of the produce was sold to local cooperatives, but more and more are establishing their own wineries. Cantina Bambinuto was founded by Marilena Aufiero in 2004, though her family have owned vines since 1990. There can be no doubt that Bambinuto is the star of Irpinia: Marilena’s wines shine with purity and are undercut by distinct minerality.
Grown on soils with a high volcanic content, which impart a distinct lean, mineral streak. The wine is so-named because in the Avellino area, falanghina is considered inferior to greco, and it is ‘insane’ to plant such valued land with this variety. Marilena disagrees, and we are glad she does, because it is the best falanghina we have ever tasted!
